ATHENS
...the incredible number of Americans in Athens, their itinerary initiated by the name-recognition of place...
...mornings in Athens defined by birdsong. The source of these oracles sought by oversized cats, descended perhaps from the lions of Hercules...
...Greece once had oral tradition, now it has graffiti...
ROME
...good acoustic sax sweeping the Godfather theme up narrow stone streets...
...Italian toilet seats covered with cardboard, as a measure against porcelain thieves...
...Rome ambulance sirens drone like Scottish bagpipes...
...priests in Rome walk with a certain swagger, beneath marble rising from shadow...
On the turntable: Grateful Dead, "Dick's Picks, Vol. 30"
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